Warhammer Painting


#101

Whelp… ordered the Van Saar gang, Gang War 3, Van Saar cards and 28 blank character cards. €80. Fuck.


#102

Be really, really careful with that stuff. Very easy to end up with clouding/patching/spattering.

I’d recommend buying a cheapo airfix model you don’t mind messing up before you start painting properly.

This way you can test out some of the main methods/skills:

  • Basing - Shake the hell out of the can for just as long as it says on the side, find a well ventilated place without wind that isn’t too hot or too cold. I do ‘sweeps’ across a model from about 10/12" away starting from right to left starting to spray the paint before I cross the model. I start spraying before I’m aiming at the model because I find the paint sometimes spits/dribbles out just as you start spraying sometimes even if you’ve shook it. For primer I really like Armypainters primers.
  • Base colours - Thin your base colours out so they are the consistency of cold milk and apply them slowly in lots of thin coats allowing to dry in between coats. I find I don’t have to thin Vallejo or Armypainter paints anywhere as much as Citadel or Tamia but they still do need a bit of thinning. Don’t go messing around with the more complex thinning techniques you can find in guides until you’re familiar with just using water for thinning - some people use thinning agents and stuff like washing up liquid but you’ve got to know what you’re doing.
  • Washing - Washes are great, combined with dry brushing and edge highlighting they let you get affects similar to the more complex shading techniques without the painstaking effort.
  • Dry brushing - Apply some paint to your brush and then take as much off the brush as you can until barely any transfers to a surface then brush over raised surfaces a bit harder than you would normally brush on a base coat. An example would be on something like chainmail - base it, apply a dark wash then dry brush in either the original base colour or a colour one step brighter than your base. This will pick out the hard edges of your surface while leaving the recesses darkened by the wash.
  • Edge highlighting - done after you’ve applied these other steps and usually using your base colour or a colour a step or two lighter than your base colour applied in very fine lines on the hardest edges of your model that would catch the most light. You can use colours different to your base like with the Blood Angel Spacemarine schemes where the extreme edge highlights are mixtures of orange, yellow and white.

Clear/Matte varnishes are something I’ve never used because of the horror stories I’ve read about how they can ruin a model. That is probably just me being a whimp though.

I’m a big fan of Vallejo paints but would recommend checking out the prices on eBay first - over here you can get them a good deal cheaper on a lot of the ‘buy now’ options.

Another option is Armypainter who have similar sized bottles and are of a very similar quality to Vallejo.

I swear by Armypainter brushes. The best brushes I’ve ever painted with. I buy a pack of cheapo model brushes for dirty work like mixing or dry brushing and then a large brush, medium brush, fine brush, very fine and insane detail brush for my main painting. It would also be worth buy some cheapo disposable paper party plates or some cheap reusable paint pallets for mixing and watering paints down - don’t paint directly from the bottle/tub.

One other thing to consider - and it might be a moot point if you’ve assembled and glued - is if you are going to paint parts separate and then assemble or assemble then paint. I partially assemble the main bulk of a model, leaving arms/attachments separate, paint them and then assemble at the end. This can lead to disaster if you’re too liberal with the glue that then flows across your nice paint job and pulls the paint off, though.

My several cents!


#103

I’ll be able to get back to this in about a month and I think I want to put some time in to my Necro Guardians Gang while I decide what I’m doing with my Termi paint scheme (Tweak or abandon).

I’ve got A LOT to do with just the models before I even put paint on them so I’ll prioritise getting them built and based which will mean finding a better way of magnetising the arms and looking to see how feasible it is to magnetise the heads after I’ve done the arms.

After that I’ll need to buy the heads I need and some more weapon arms to give me some gear to play with for a campaign then on to a test paint. If I’m happy with the red leather effect I’m going for I’ll pick up one or two of the Guardians minis to see how far out of proportion to the Neophytes they are.

I’ll circle back to the Termi’s after this.

I’ve spoken with the lads down in our Technology department and asked them if I’m alright to come in over the summer and use the 3D printers, laser cutters and the vacuum former for a few projects I’m thinking about:

  • Got loads I want to 3D print away from minis but I want to print some scatter terrain I can use across the different game systems I have. Got some ideas for some little organiser/clips/clamps for games like Arcadia Quest, Dust Tactics, SpaceHulk to keep the boards and pieces from moving every time they’re nudged slightly. Also really fancy going back to the Titanfall pilot helmet I started prepping for printing, maybe even look at the LED kits people have made for them - I’d love a life sized pilot helmet!

  • Planning to build a few organisers using the vacuum former for 5 minute dungeon/Dark Castle/GOB/BS (If the latter two are ok with you, @Jester ?). Nothing special, just sunken spaces for draw/discard/other card piles and maybe some character card holders, maybe some dice rolling boxes.

  • Want to laser cut a few sets of building/scatter terrain from the free Necro stuff shared online for use with Necro and some other systems.

Costed up the materials for it (don’t fancy committing theft by using school’s resources for personal projects!) and it’ll be £100/£150 for materials but that will get me a lot of stuff and I’ll get a chance to polish up my 3D printing that I haven’t touched in a year and the laser cutting/vacuum forming stuff I haven’t touched in nearly 20 years now!


#104

Yeah matey - no problem :slight_smile: Be interesting to see what you make.


#105

Something along the lines of this one that I knocked up for Escape The Dark Castle:

Need to take some measurements but layouts are pretty much what I’m thinking.

For GOB there will be one character tray for each player and a role tray for the role cards, very similar for BS too!

I’ll throw the designs your way when I’ve done them and snap some pics of the final product when they’re done. If they’re any good and you fancy one I’ll get a set posted over to you!


#106

I was just thinking about this… Do you want the logo’s in vector format to emboss the plastic?

Sending one over would be awesome - but equally, would you mind if we hosted the ‘print file’ (or whatever you make) so others could download and use it. It’s rare that you can do much ‘open source’ stuff in the physical world… but it could be nice to let others use it. Obviously completely credit you for it.

Your call on that though. If you’d rather just keep it private, then i’d fully understand.


#107

So long as you’re happy with the design I’m more than happy for it to be shared out for others. I absolutely love the open source stuff that is found in TT/Card/Boardgame communities and would love to contribute to that in some way!

I’ll do a test forming of the rough shape to get the hang of it and if it works as intended I’ll get back to you about the logos - my plan is to use the blue modelling foam blocks as the template so I would have to figure out how to get an accurate rendering of the logos in to the foam since I’d be carving them by hand - maybe print the logos with the 3D printer and ‘stamp’ them in to the blue foam after I’ve carved it…


#108

Actually, I could well do all of this by 3D printing them…that way the files that are shared would just mean having them sent for 3D printing rather than using specs to carve foam and getting them vacuum formed which would be a lot more involved.

God I really need to get my teeth in to some projects, I can’t wait!


#109

With the cardboard tile clips, some small T-pieces would probably be your best bet I reckon. 1mm of leeway would mean that they would hold, but not scuff the card. The Space Hulk tiles are just too damned pretty to be damaged :smiley:


#110

I remember you mentioning this now, derp. I’ll have a look in to this, with stuff like Arcadia Quest it can be a nightmare keeping things stuck in place.

As for the organisers, this is an example of the sort of thing I’m thinking for the games with minis - link.

Knocked up a prototype for GOB for the role cards with small notches to get the cards out:

Need to redo the model to include a draw and discard pile and make it a lot more compact/more interesting - currently it would be more than a foot wide and 10" tall, which is just too big.

Thinking about your offer @Jester and wondering about embossing the icons for the different roles in the depressions for each role card.

I’ll be able to get moving with this properly in a month or so and will be able to start knocking out prototypes hopefully within the second or third week after that.

I’ll try out the vacuum former and the 3D printer and see where I end up!


#111

Meanwhile - I managed to prime and have started basing;


#112

That hot glue worked a treat!

What’s this the base for?


#113

The Hellbrute I got from @NaloaC :heart:🖒:grin:


#114

Looks like he watched Saving Private Ryan a few too many times and thought he could take out a Hellbrute with a sticky bomb! :smiley:


#115

More progress on the Hellbrute!




Some more shading and a bit more detail to do, maybe some highlights…getting there slowly


#116

It might be an extravagance, but see if you have gloss varnish or something for the blood/mess for the guardsman.

Looking awesome so far fella!


#117

+1 to this, maybe a dark wash pooled around the edges too to make it look like it is coagulating or something.


#118

So the Hellbrute is drying and I’m like “what can I do now…oh I know the Blood Angels army I’m starting need an HQ!”
My name is spoonlamp and I have a plastic problem…




#119

ANGRY BIRD MAN WILL DECAPITATE YOU!

Awesome stuff fella. Looks like one of the better Failcast ones!


#120

It needed quite a bit of trimming away regarding flashing, and I don’t mean the “oi, cop a load of this flapping tackle!” flashing either! Also the axe handle was properly bent - easily fixed by dipping it in freshly boiled water and holding it straight until it cooled. WITH MY TACKLE!!!